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Asia, Tibet, Lapche Kang, Attempt, Previously Unreported

Lapche Kang, Attempt, Previously Unreported. The Kyoto Alpine League team, led by Kazunari Aihara and comprised of six members, made an attempt on the northeast ridge of Lapche Kang (7100m) in September-October, 1998, but abandoned the attempt 160 meters below the summit. We placed Base Camp (4500m) near Lango Village on September 12 and carried our supplies up by yak to ABC (5400m) on September 15. We set up Camp I (5750m) on September 21 and CII (6100m) on September 28 on the Duyannu Glacier. At first, we made an attempt via the ice fall on Duyannu Glacier, reaching about 6450 meters near the hanging glacier. We next tried the neighboring small ridge on the ice fall, placing CIII(6700m) on the northeast ridge on October 14. We made the attempt for the summit from CIII on October 15-16. But we weren’t blessed with fine weather and could not extend the route up further due to a shortage of fixed ropes. Snow conditions on the upper part of the summit ridge were very bad. By then we had little food and time. We had to abandon our climb on October 16.

Masaki Hayashi, Kyoto Alpine League