American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Himal, Tangkongma, Southeast/Northeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Tangkongma, Southeast/Northeast Ridge. It was reported that Jamie McGuinness (New Zealand) led an international commercial expedition that made perhaps the third official ascent of Tangkogma (6215m) via a possible new route. The mountain, which sits above the last approach stage to Kangchengjunga’s Pangpema Base Camp, is easily approached, and other unauthorized ascents may thus have been made.

McGuinness, with one Sherpa and one Danish, one French and two American clients, climbed a snow gully from a high camp (ca. 5000m) before moving right onto the southeast ridge. They then traversed across a glacier on the right to connect with the northeast ridge, which they followed to the summit on October 29. The route was climbed without ropes; the next day, McGuinness, with three American clients and another Sherpa, repeated the route to the summit. (High Mountain Sports 212)

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