American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Himal, Erkimkang, North Face, and Khatung Kang, Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Erkimkang, North Face, and Khatung Kang, Ascents. In mid-August I went to the Langtang region, north of Kathmandu, where I retraced the steps of Bill Tilman, who visited the area in the late 1940s. Like Tilman, I made a base at the yersa (temporary settlement) of Langshisa, exploring and making acclimatization hikes in the area. I made an ascent of “Buddha Peak” (Tilman’s name, locally known as Erkimkang, ca. 6100m), in three days round-trip from base camp, via the north face. The climb involved some moderate mixed climbing but was mostly snow and ice. I descended to the west, down a glacier. Tilman approached this by crossing the river downstream of Langshisa near the Yersa of Numathang, but now there is a small bridge at Langshisa itself. This may or may not have been the peak’s first ascent.

In September I went to Pokhara by bus, then flew to Jomsom. From there I trekked over the Thorung La, and to acclimate climbed Khatung Kang (6400m) from the east by a moderate snow/ice route.

Charlie Fowler

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