American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Miyar Nala, Thunder Peak, East Ridge, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Thunder Peak, East Ridge, Previously Unreported. In 1998 and 1999, a small Italian expedition visited the Miyar Valley in India. The team was composed of Gianluca Beilin and Diego Steffani. In 1998, they climbed a tower christened “Thunder Peak” (ca. 6100m) by the obvious east ridge. The ascent involved climbing up to VII, occasional points of aid, mixed up to M5 and ice up to 85 degrees; it was done in the purest alpine style without porters or fixed ropes and in a single push with open bivouacs. The name was given for the massive storm that caught them while they were abseiling.

The team returned again to the same valley the following year with the intention of first doing an easy 5000-to 6000-meter peak for acclimatization and then going for the massive south face of an unnamed rock tower. They were only able to do the acclimatization scramble before Diego Steffani exploded his knee and had to return home.

Emanuele Pellizzari

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