American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Garhwal, Dunagiri, North Face, New Route and Attempt, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Dunagiri, North Face, New Route and Attempt, Previously Unreported. It was reported that in 1998, Spaniards Xabier Guembe and Jon Beloki completed a new route (80 degrees, IV, 1900 meters) alpine-style on the previously unclimbed north face of Dunagiri from May 15-21. A second Spanish group of Fermin Izco and Mikel Zabalza attempted a more difficult line on the face to the left of the Guembe-Beloki route but were forced to retreat 300 meters below the summit ridge after climbing 1000 meters of 60- to 80-degree ice. Guembe and Beloki descended the west ridge. Beloki was ill and Guembe was too exhausted to assist him; the pair had gone three days without food or water when Izxo and Zabalza came to their rescue at 6400 meters. (Desnivel)

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