American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Spantik-Sosbun Mountains, Snow Lake Area, Cornice and Tarci Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Snow Lake Area, Cornice and Tarci Peaks. Seven members of the Bergamo section of the Club Alpino Italiano spent July 19 to August 4 in a base camp (4700m) where the Biafo merges with the Sim Gang Glacier. The original project was the second ascent of Solu Tower (S. Venables and partner, 1987) by a new route, but the bad weather persuaded us to change our objective.

The weather broke for only two days and on July 23, Giangi Angeloni, Angelo Carminati, Giorgio Carrara, Gigi Rota and Ennio Spiranelli climbed the central spur (A1 60°, easy mixed, 800m) of the west face of Cornice Peak (5882m). Four days later, on July 28, Giangi Angeloni, Gigi Rota and Ennio Spiranelli made the first ascent of Tarci Peak (ca. 5800m), located on the north side of Snow Lake, in a day from Advanced Base Camp, via the south ridge/west face, a route we called Imperial Rabbit (5.9 AI 55°, 12 pitches, 600m). The proposed peak name is in memory of Tarcisio Fazzini, our mountain-climber friend who died in 1990. Skis were used to access all the peaks.

Giangi Angeloni, Club Alpino Italiano

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