American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Mountains, King Brakk, Allah's Finger, Ibrahim Peak, First Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

King Brakk, Allah ’s Finger, Ibrahim Peak, First Ascents. A team of three Italians and one Swiss carried out a massive campaign of exploration in unknown valleys and peaks of the Hushe area. The team was composed of Maurizio Giordani, Lorenzo Lanfranchi (Switzerland), Luca Maspes and Natale Villa.

They first went to Khridas Valley, close to Hushe. The valley entrance is about one kilometer beyond Kande, the starting point for the Nangma Valley. In two days of steep walking plus occasional climbing (V/V+), they got to Base Camp. Because of the serious approach, the porters carried 15 kilos instead of 25, so supplies were limited.

During ten days, they climbed two new peaks that they christened King Brakk and Allah’s Finger. The east- and northeast-facing route (VI+ A2, nine pitches, 400m) on King Brakk (ca. 4800m) was climbed in a day. The route was rappelled. The second line took the team four days for 760 meters. It was VIII-compulsory free climbing plus some sections of A2/A3. Some bolts were placed at belays. The route was rappelled. This valley offers great opportunities for rock climbing on unknown and unclimbed summits

Later, Giordani and Villa had to return home. Maspes and Lanfranchi went to the Honbrok Valley. They climbed a peak called Ibrahim Peak, which lies about two days’ walk from Hushe. Rotten rock and easy scrambling led to the summit. The valley offers little possibilities for rock climbing. Cigarette Peak (local Hushe name) at the end of the valley appears interesting for ice climbing, but only above a nasty and dangerous, very broken glacier crossing. The local guide Little Karim was with the team in both valleys.

Emanuele Pellizzari

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