American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Nameless Tower, Yugoslavian Route, and Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Nameless Tower, Yugoslavian Route, and Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route. Alberto and Felix Iñurrategi, Jon Lazkano and Jose L. Tamiyo climbed Nameless Tower (6245 metres) via the Yugoslavian Route, summiting on June 26 at 3:30 p.m. The four then traveled to Nanga Parbat; Jon Lazkano left the team early. After reaching Base Camp (4200m) on July 15, the three remaining team members carried out a rescue to save the Columbian expedition leader Volker Stallbohm, who was injured at 6600 meters above Camp II on the Kinshofer Route on July 13. Jose L. Tamiyo, speaking on behalf of the expedition, said, “We were a little acclimatized after climbing the Nameless Tower, so we pushed from BC at 4200 meters to Camp II at 6000 meters on July 16.”

After assisting in the rescue, the three climbers went from BC to CII on July 27 in one push and then made CIV at 7300 meters the next day. From CIV, they climbed to the top and back to Camp II on July 29, reaching the summit on July 29 at 7:30 a.m. from the Diamir side.

Asem Mustafa Awan, The Nation, Pakistan

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