American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Nameless Tower, Claire de Lune

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Nameless Tower, Claire de Lune. Gabriel Besson, Claude-Alain Gaillan, David Maret and I arrived at Base Camp on the Dunge Glacier at the beginning of July. The route we opened, Claire de Lune (VI 6b A3, 1230m), lies between that of Michel Piola (Gran Diedre Desplomado) and the Spanish Route (Insumisoa). Approximately 900-1000 meters of our route was new. We started on the left side of the base of the Tower’s southwest face at 5000 meters with the first three pitches of Insumisoa, at which point we made our first camp. We then opened a new line on the slab directly above. The route followed the gray rock througha rock scar and a system of cracks to the summit (6230m). At midnight on July 28, under a magnificent full moon, we arrived on top. We used two sets of Camalots up to #4. We placed one bolt at each belay. Eight days were spent on the rock. We made two fixed camps with portaledges, one at the base of the slab and another one at the base of the gray rock. From the base to the camp, we fixed rope and then climbed in capsule-style to the top. The hardest pitch (A3) is two pitches after the gray rock and has a little bit of ice.

Fréderic Roux, Switzerland

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