AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Trango Pulpit, Norwegian Trango Pulpit Direct

Trango Pulpit, Norwegian Trango Pulpit Direct. From June 28-August 4 (plus two days of fixing), Robert Caspersen, Gunnar Karlsen, Per Ludvig Skjerven and Einar Wold established the Norwegian Trango Pulpit Direct (VII A4 5.11, 48 pitches) on the Trango Pulpit (ca. 6050m). The Trango Pulpit is a secondary summit on the Great Trango massif. Climbing capsule style, the team linked together the lower wall, which faces northeast, and the upper wall, which faces directly north. The two faces are divided by a 180-meter hanging glacier. The team found reports of two other attempts on the wall, one by a Spanish team, who reportedly turned back after only five or six pitches on the lower face, and another by an Australian team that tried a slightly shorter, not-so-direct (but more feasible-looking) line up the right side of the lower face. It is said the Australians turned back after reaching a section of very hard aid on the 12th or 13th pitch. The Norwegian route takes the central line on both the lower and upper face. They used hand drills on their route and brought food for 30 days. The climb took 38 days. A full account of their journey appears earlier in this journal.