American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Russian Direct

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Russian Direct. Alexander Odintsov, Igor Potankin, Ivan Samoilenko (high-altitude cameraman) and Yuri Koshelenko arrived at Base Camp on July 7. From July 15-August 10, the team established The Russian Way (VII 5.11 A4, 2675m) on the “prow” of the northwest face of Great Trango Tower. Three of the team led by turns; Ivan Samoilenko made a film. It was a rule to climb each day, even if the weather was bad and they could only climb ten meters. On the big ledge beneath the headwall, the Russians shared time with the American team (see above) for several days. The story of their climb appears earlier in this journal.

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