American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Great Trango Tower, Korean Fantasy, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Great Trango Tower, Korean Fantasy, Previously Unreported. From June 21-August 19, 1997, expedition members Sang-Jo Lee (leader), Youn-Jung Shin (f), Choi Seung-Chol and Hyung- Jin Kim established a variation to the Norwegian Buttress Route on the North Pillar of Great Trango Tower. The team arrived in Islamabad on June 22, and reached Base Camp on July 2. On July 10, they transported equipment to the start of the climb and fixed the first pitches.

Their variation, which they called Korean Fantasy, is located at the separating point of The Grand Voyage and the Norwegian Buttress Route (see topo on p. 86). The next day, an avalanche swept away food and equipment, forcing the team to spend the next four days searching for lost supplies and carrying loads again. During their climb, they bivouacked at the second, sixth, ninth and tenth pitches. They began the climb proper on July 21st, climbing some 12 new 45- to 50-meter pitches, including one A4+ and three A4 pitches, before joining the Norwegian Route. This they followed to the east summit, which they reached on July 28. Choi Seung-Chul paraglided down to BC; the others rappelled the route. On August 1, they reached the base of the route and withdrew the fixed ropes. They departed BC on August 7.

Kim Woo-Sun, Korea

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