American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Rakoposhi-Harimosh Mountains, Panmah Muztagh, Latok IV, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Latok IV, Attempt. Motomu Omiya and Tsuguo Tsuchida (Japan) attempted the south ridge of Latok IV*. The pair arrived at Base Camp on August 4. They reached their high point of ca. 5700 meters at 2 a.m. on August 14. Heavy snow and a lack of time stopped the attempt. They departed BC on August 21.

*There is some confusion regarding the name of the peak Omiya and Tsuchida attempted. Mr. Omiya personally handed a photo of Latok IV to the Editor of this journal and indicated the line they tried, but referred to the peak as Latok V. He also gave an altitude for the peak as 6190 meters. This does not correspond to the altitudes for any of the Latok group as noted by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research Karakoram map. We can say with confidence that the photo captioned Latok IV on page 333 is the one attempted by Omiya and Tsuchida. The confusion may be the result of the Italian measuments of the Latok group, a matter investigated on pages 320-321 of the 1998 AAJ.

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