American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Naltar Mountains, Pt. 5520m, Dedo De Galupour and Bubulimotin, Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Pt. 5520m, Dedo De Galupour and Bubulimotin, Ascents. It was reported that Spaniards David Larrión and Ager Madariaga made perhaps the first ascent of the east ridge of Pt. 5520m in early August. The peak lies on the watershed between the Sumaiyer and Nagar valleys; incorrectly dubbed “Sumaiyer Peak” by the pair, it was originally named “Peak Dawson” by the British first ascensionists who climbed it in 1979. Larrión and Madariaga then traveled to Naltar, where, on August 17, they made the first ascent of the northeast couloir/north ridge of “Dedo de Galupour.” The 800-meter route involved 60-degree snow and ice and rock up to IV+. On August 21, the pair made a possible first ascent of a 5002- meter peak via a 1000-meter mixed route (50° IV). (High Mountain Sports 212)

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