American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Free Korea Peak, North Face Direct, Previously Unreported

Kyrgyzstan, Kyrgysky Alatau, Ala Archa National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Alexander Ruchkin
  • Climb Year: 1997
  • Publication Year: 2000

From February 23-27, 1997, Alexander Ruchkin and Andrey Puchinin established the North Face Direct route (6A A3 +, 900m) on the north face of Free Korea Peak (4740m). The route takes a direct line up a weakness in the wall between the Bezzubkin and Mishljaev routes, and then along on narrow 90-degree ice. It is interrupted by two rock sections in the center with vertical walls and roofs. There is a lot of ice, but on the rock there are few cracks for reliable protection. Bad weather delayed us under the beginning of a steep section for two days.

Alexander Ruchkin, Russia

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