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Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kyrgyzstan, Kyrgysky Alatau, Ala Archa National Park, Korona, North Face of First Tower, Solo Dream

Korona, North Face of First Tower, Solo Dream. From May 6-9, Alexander Ruchkin established the route Solo Dream (Russian grade 5B, or 6a A4, 600m) on the north face of the First Tower of Korona (4810m) in the Ala Archa National Park. Korona lies at the highest end of the Aksay Glacier. The north face is very difficult, and the First Tower dominates the others. There are now six routes on the First Tower; three, including Solo Dream, have had only one ascent. Many brave men tried repeating the Kalugin Route to the top. But all of them were unsuccessful. Indistinct crack systems and the steepness of the wall turned back all climbers.

The route Solo Dream consists of 12 pitches on the top section of the wall (600m), which is steep enough so that after snowfall it is not covered by snow. The average steepness of rock was 74 degrees. The steepness of the main part was 86 degrees. The starting weight of the rucksack was 30 kilos. Small thin hooks and technical Friends were very popular on this route because there are many incipient cracks.

Alexander Ruchkin, Russia