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South America, Argentine Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, East Face, Attempt

Aguja Guillaumet, East Face, Attempt. Dave Hesleden and I went to attempt the West Face of Fitz Roy in November and December, 1998. In actual fact it was quite snowy and icy, so we switched to the east side. After one attempt at the Franco-Argentine Route on the big Fitz (all the cracks were full of ice), we realized that we would be better off trying to climb on mixed routes. We did 450 meters of good climbing on the [400-meter] east face of Guillamet, abseiling off two to three rope lengths from the top due to constant spindrift. The climbing was good and hard: Scottish VI/VII-ish with poor protection on the second half.

Andy Cave, United Kingdom