Cuerno Norte, West Face, Nacimientos. On February 13, Andre Labarca, Claudio Retamal and Luis Ortiz (Chile) finished a new route on the west face of Cuerno Norte. Nacimientos (V 5.10 Al, 15 pitches) was climbed in 18 hours from Advanced Base Camp. (Base Camp was in the Valle del Frances, 15 minutes from the British Camp; ABC was a three-person cave, 20 minutes from the base of the wall and a one-and-a-half hour hike up toward Cuerno Norte.) The route goes straight to the col between Cuerno Norte and Mascara (a.k.a. the Mummer) on easy slabs in seven pitches (5.5). They climbed this section unroped. From the col, the southwest edge of Cuerno Norte was climbed on excellent granite in eight pitches, at which point they reached sedimentary rock. All the granite was climbed clean except pitch 7, where Andre made the only aid move (Al) of the route. Once on the sedimentary rock, they hiked to Cuerno Norte’s principal summit in 20 minutes. They rapped the route of ascent, using pitons for the anchors. The party reported no sign of another route on this ridge.
A UIAA report of a 1998 route by Andre Labarca and Claudio Retamel on the southwest face of Cuerno Principal was incorrect. Though attempted, the route was not finished.
Sergio Echeverria and Hernan Jofre, Chile