American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huantsán, North Face, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Huantsán, North Face, New Route. Slovenian climbers Grega Lacen, Matej Flis and Iztok Mihev climbed a new route on the north face of Huantsan (6395m). They entered the face on June 29 at midnight and reached the top at 8 p.m. the next day. They arrived back at Base Camp one day later in the afternoon. The route, Koroska (VI 6a+ M4/5 85°, 1400m), was named after the climbers’ province. The climbing was carried out under huge seracs and was very dangerous. They did most of the climbing at night. During the day, they stayed in a snow hole. Rock pitches were surprisingly compact, but the snow was very loose. They wanted to rappel the route, but serac fall forced them to traverse to the north summit and descend down the North Ridge (TD-, Booij-Egeler-Terray).

Grega LaCen, Slovenia

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