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North America, Mexico, Nuevo Leon, El Portrero Chico, Milesky Wall, Rest Day alla Pagoda

Milesky Wall, Rest Day alla Pagoda. In January, Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni and Marco Curti, all from Trento, Italy, established a new route, Rest Day alia Pagoda (7c+) in the Milesky Wall sector in three days. The route has six pitches which range from 25-40 meters each. With the help of a battery-powered drill, they climbed from the ground up, placing bolts while hanging from hooks. They wanted to create a route with a high degree of difficulty that presented notable mandatory difficulties and that asked of future ascensionists a certain commitment to climb it. The team climbed all the moves free during the first ascent, then redpointed it. On January 30, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni made a one-day redpoint ascent. The individual pitch difficulties are 6b+, 7a, 7a, 6c, 6c+, 7c+. Rest Day alia Pagoda is a wonderful overhanging climb. Descent was made with double ropes.

Larcher and Leoni repeated onsight the gorgeous Time for Living (8a) in the La Infamia sector. The six pitches (7a+, 7a+, 7b/c, 7b/c, 7c/8a, 7c) are all overhanging. In the Virgin Canyon sector, they bolted four one-pitch routs: El Balota (7b), Mr. Patacca (6b), Jesus (6a+) and Gil (6a).

Erik Svab, Italy