American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Mexico, Nuevo Leon, El Portrero Chico, Milesky Wall, Rest Day alla Pagoda

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Milesky Wall, Rest Day alla Pagoda. In January, Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni and Marco Curti, all from Trento, Italy, established a new route, Rest Day alia Pagoda (7c+) in the Milesky Wall sector in three days. The route has six pitches which range from 25-40 meters each. With the help of a battery-powered drill, they climbed from the ground up, placing bolts while hanging from hooks. They wanted to create a route with a high degree of difficulty that presented notable mandatory difficulties and that asked of future ascensionists a certain commitment to climb it. The team climbed all the moves free during the first ascent, then redpointed it. On January 30, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni made a one-day redpoint ascent. The individual pitch difficulties are 6b+, 7a, 7a, 6c, 6c+, 7c+. Rest Day alia Pagoda is a wonderful overhanging climb. Descent was made with double ropes.

Larcher and Leoni repeated onsight the gorgeous Time for Living (8a) in the La Infamia sector. The six pitches (7a+, 7a+, 7b/c, 7b/c, 7c/8a, 7c) are all overhanging. In the Virgin Canyon sector, they bolted four one-pitch routs: El Balota (7b), Mr. Patacca (6b), Jesus (6a+) and Gil (6a).

Erik Svab, Italy

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