American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, Greenland, Ofjord Region, Tsavagattaq, South Ridge, and Other Activity

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Tsavagattaq, South Ridge, and Other Activity. It was reported that Bengt Flygel Nilsfors, Magnar Osnes and Odd Roar Wiik (Norway) with Micke Sundberg (Sweden) visited the Ofjord region near the head of Scoresby Sound Fjord south of the Staunings Alps in 1998. Wiik and Sundberg unsuccessfully attempted the striking Tsavagattaq via the south ridge. Nilsfors, Sundberg and Wiik returned to the area in July, 1999, with Patrik Fransson (Sweden), this time climbing the south ridge of Tsavagattaq in two and a half days. The route involved more than 30 pitches at up to 5.1 la interspersed with long sections of scrambling. Descent was made via 32 rappels and a lot of downclimbing. A small cairn was found on top, probably accessed via the southwest face. Wiik commented that it was the best alpine rock climb he had done.

Also in the fjord at the same time was a group of seven Swedes who focused on the Grundtvigskirken Peaks. Anders Granål, Johan Hansson, Mads Homgren and Mike Wright climbed the middle summit of Grundtvigskirken Spire via the East-Southeast Pillar (EDI). The descent was made via rappel by the same route. Magnus Lindberg and Mike Wright then climbed the south face of the south summit of the Spire via a 25-pitch line up to 5.10c/d. Descent was made by the East-Southeast Pillar anchors established earlier. (High Mountain Sports 210)

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