American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Lemon Mountains, Various Activity

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Lemon Mountains, Various Activity. The Lemon Mountains are one of Greenland’s geological freaks; their spiky peaks sit uncomfortably between the usual Greenland domes on either side. You can find them on the map at the northern end of Kangerdlugssuaq (68° 30' N, 32° W), a large fjord halfway between Ammassalik and Constable Pynt on the east Greenland coast.

Our group of eight “youngsters” (Rupert Gladstone, Rupert Finn, Dr. Sarah Walmsley, Andy Parker, Tim Harvey, Dan Haywood, Tom Chamberlain and I) spent four weeks climbing 18 routes (including 12 first ascents) on the Hedgehog Glacier, including several peaks opposite the Cathedral, the highest mountain in the region. The Lemons are only 2000 to 2500 meters in height, but from a base at 1100 meters we had climbs up to 1000 meters long. We were delighted to find sound rock and ice, and climbed routes from F- to TD+.

We reached the area by a ski-equipped Twin Otter directly from Iceland with an airdrop of supplies by a Piper Chieftain. As a group of eight, we made most efficient use of the planes, although the trip still cost £2000 a head. The expedition report can be found at www.wayupnorth.clara.co.uk

Richard Pash, United Kingdom

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