AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Stewart Valley, The Citadel, The Endless Day

The Citadel, The Endless Day. Mike “Twid” Turner, Louise Thomas, Jerry Gore and Shaun Hutson made the first ascent of “The Citadel” in Stewart Valley via their 900-meter route, The Endless Day. (The climbers note that the peak may already have an official name.) The climbers were gobsmacked at the potential of the arctic valley; all members thought it was as impressive as Yosemite. The 25-pitch route was climbed in some of the worst weather the team had experienced anywhere else in the world. The climb took from midway through May to the middle of June. After fixing 500 meters of rope, the team moved up in capsule style to establish a hanging portaledge camp at half-height. Eight nights were spent living in por- taledges during freezing conditions; it snowed most days. From the portaledges, the team climbed up an impressive corner to the summit of The Citadel. Fate was on the team’s side: as they climbed over the top of this impressive wall, the clouds cleared and the sun came out. The breath-taking view rounded off a very successful expedition. The final push took a 36- hour day to climb to the summit and return to the camp. The endless light of the arctic allowed sun on the wall from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. This was the first all-British team to make a new route in the frozen fjords of Baffin’s east coast.

Mike “Twid” Turner, Wales