American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell Range, Regal Mountain, Peak 12,454', Parka Peak, Rime Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Regal Mountain, Peak 12,454', Parka Peak, Rime Peak. On May 9, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters flew Dawn Groth, Ben Still, Kathy Still, Wayne Todd, Cory Hinds, Elena Hinds and me to 9,000 feet on the upper Nabesna Glacier below Regal Mountain (13,845'). We established a high camp at 10,800 feet, from which we made an ascent of Peak 12,454' (first ascended in June, 1955) via its east ridge (Alaska Grade 1). The next day, we climbed Regal Mountain up its southern slopes (Alaska Grade 2) after retreating from its striking southwest ridge. We then spent two days skiing 15 miles west over Mountaineers’ Pass to an 8,000-foot camp below the north face of Rime Peak (12,741') and Atna Peak (13,860'), scrambling up Peak 8,560' en route. Cory, Wayne, Ben and Cathy then climbed the northwest face of Parka Peak (13,280') (Alaska Grade 1) via Mountaineers’ Pass, only removing their skis for the final 700 feet. Cory, Elena, Wayne and Cathy then attempted the east ridge of Rime Peak (Alaska Grade 2) from the Atna/Rime col before turning back at 12,500 feet. Exposed snow and ice climbing up to 60 degrees made for exciting climbing. Future parties should be aware that all routes up Parka, Atna and Rime Peaks from the north are exposed to sometimes considerable serac avalanche danger. Our group also made ascents of Peak 10,060', Peak 8,500'+ and Peak 7,280' before our pilot returned for us on May 22, after 14 sunny days in the Wrangells.

David Hart, Mountaineering Club of Alaska

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