Mt. Hooker, Brain Larceny, Second Ascent, and Buffalo Head, East Face, The Skeptic. Cameron Teague and I made the second ascent of Brain Larceny (Donahue-Harvey, 1994) free in one day on August 25. The grade was confirmed at V 5.12R. The line follows good rock with pitches fairly consistently at 5.11 and 5.12 and contains no fixed gear. We used no route info other than a matchboxsized, multi-xeroxed photograph from Rock & Ice No. 82.
Buffalo Head is the northernmost tower of the ridge between South Fork Lakes and Wasakie Pass. Cameron Teague and I made the first ascent of The Skeptic (IV 5.11, seven pitches, 900') on September 27. The route takes a line up the center of the east face that gains a major left-facing dihedral before following a 200-foot featured wall to the summit. The route was completed with no prior scoping in one day. Descent is via slabs to the southwest and a short rappel into the gully.
Kath Pyke, United Kingdom