American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Mt. Hooker, Brain Larceny, Second Ascent, and Buffalo Head, East Face, The Skeptic

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Mt. Hooker, Brain Larceny, Second Ascent, and Buffalo Head, East Face, The Skeptic. Cameron Teague and I made the second ascent of Brain Larceny (Donahue-Harvey, 1994) free in one day on August 25. The grade was confirmed at V 5.12R. The line follows good rock with pitches fairly consistently at 5.11 and 5.12 and contains no fixed gear. We used no route info other than a matchboxsized, multi-xeroxed photograph from Rock & Ice No. 82.

Buffalo Head is the northernmost tower of the ridge between South Fork Lakes and Wasakie Pass. Cameron Teague and I made the first ascent of The Skeptic (IV 5.11, seven pitches, 900') on September 27. The route takes a line up the center of the east face that gains a major left-facing dihedral before following a 200-foot featured wall to the summit. The route was completed with no prior scoping in one day. Descent is via slabs to the southwest and a short rappel into the gully.

Kath Pyke, United Kingdom

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