American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, New Routes, and Other Climbs

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Grand Teton, New Routes, and Other Climbs. On the east face of the Grand Teton, in July, Zac Martin and I climbed The Golden Arête (V 5.11d AI2) with 15 bolts and Offspring (III 5.11 Al) with four bolts and three points of aid. Both routes are located to the right of the Smith Otterbody Route. The routes went in ground-up with a hand drill. The Golden Arête was pushed to the summit in 16 hours via the Otterbody and Ford Couloir routes after spending two short days on the first three pitches. In August, I soloed the Crystal Tower (III 5.10) on the Grand Teton. This overhanging tower of golden rock with a white serrated summit is located at the base of the Underhill Ridge. This six-pitch route is similar in quality and difficulty to Caveat Emptor and is located in the heart of the Tetons. In September, I soloed a new route on the west face of the Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton. Got to Kill Captain Stupid (III 5.9+) climbs the steep wall above the Wall Street Couloir to the left of the Jackson-Rickert at a surprisingly moderate 5.9, joins the West Face of the Exum for its 5.7 offwidth, then finishes in the chockstone-capped chimney just right of the Pownall-Gilkey exit.

In Death Canyon, Zac Martin and I climbed Braeburn’s Corner (5.11a, five pitches) on the Omega Buttress across the gully from Ship’s Prow Pillar. Also in Death Canyon, Zac and a partner put in a long Grade V on the south side of the canyon in a two-day effort.

JIm Beyer

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