American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, East Face, Gear and Clothing, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Longs Peak, East Face, Gear and Clothing, Previously Unreported. In August, 1998, Cameron Tague and I did the second ascent of Gear and Clothing (IV 5.9 A4) on the Diamond. The ascent itself is not significant; however, the amount of free climbing on the route is worth mentioning. We freed several of the aid pitches at 5.10-ish. One pitch, an A2 corner, was freed by Cameron at 5.12 and was excellent. The A4 pitch might go free as well, as would the pitches on the upper headwall, to a patient party. Watch out for the death flake on the pitch below Table Overhang; it could take out your belayer and all those slow starters in the North Chimney.

Kent McClannan

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