American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, New Mexico, Navajolands, Shiprock, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Shiprock, Various Ascents. In January, I soloed Parallel Reality (IV A5+) and On a Tear (VI A5+) on the south face of Sextant Spire. Both routes are extreme aid routes that went in without bolts, and both have excellent groundfall potential.

On the west face of Shiprock, I soloed West Sanctum (VI A5+ 5.10) from December 1-11: fat solo action with eight bolts in 11 days and ten nights and three A5 pitches in a row.

For West Sanctum, I tried to get a permit from the grazing permit administrator at the Shiprock Chapter House but was declined. A climbing accident on Shiprock involving a woman and a broken leg four years ago resulted in a big rescue. The grazing-permit administrator informed me that Shiprock Chapter House passed a resolution as a result of the accident encouraging the Window Rock Chapter House not to give out permits.

Jim Beyer

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