American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, Canyonlands National Park, Soda Springs Basin, Yum Kipper, Toad Rage

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Soda Springs Basin, Yum Kipper, Toad Rage. In the basin south of Candlestick Tower, and below the White Rim Trail, Fran Bagenal and I attempted the obvious large tower, which we called Yum Kipper, in April, climbing two pitches. We retreated, encouraged by a vicious sandstorm screaming through the imposing slot of the third and final pitch. I returned a couple weeks later with Strappo Hughes,Tony Herr and many large Friends. We each took turns on the slot. Strappo eventually summitted after freeing the crack with one hang. He sat on top, untied and dropped the ropes so I could attempt a redpoint. I too hung once, though in a different spot. The rumble of approaching thunder told us we’d better call it quits. Tony followed, entirely free. We proclaimed the pitch 5.11c, and the climb Toad Rage.

Yum Kipper is about 250 feet high; the top layer is squared off, and composed of a very coarse, abrasive sandstone/limestone. Simul-rappelling was out of the question. Plan B involved a piece of lumber and a small saw. A nice piece of redwood 4 x 4 cut down to 4' 6" straddled the chimney. We hoped that after rappelling from this, we could walk out from the cliff and pull sideways on the lumber and yard it off. It would not budge. I jumared back up, the sky now black, while raindrops whipped around. Better hurry up with a Plan C. I duct- taped a three-foot 2x4 under one end of the 4 x 4 to make a “T.” One end of the 2x4 hung over the edge about a foot, and enough rope was tied to this end to reach the ground. I rappelled, pulled on the ropes tied to the 2 x 4 and the whole anchor pivoted over the edge and came crashing down.

Steve “Crusher” Bartlett

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