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North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, Canyonlands National Park, Dabneyland, Various Ascents

Dabneyland, Various Ascents. This area is just outside and south of Monument Basin. It is named after Walt Dabney, who began the Canyonland’s “No New Fixed Anchor” policy in 1995. The policy was designed to stop any new climbing development, but I reckon it just adds to the fun. There is more commitment when the pins and bolt kit have been left at home, and it is very satisfying to leave no trace.

The Pixie Stick is the only tower previously climbed in the area. During 1999, three new towers were climbed. In January, Kath Pyke and I climbed The Intemperate Bass (5.1 la) on the furthest tower east, which we named Captain Pugwash. Nigel Gregory and I climbed Captain Bird’s Eye via the route This Is The Place in October; the route involved three excellent 5.10c pitches on perfect Cutler sandstone, with mostly face climbing on pockets and edges. In November, Ralph E. Bums and I climbed Captain Collywobble. This involved four pitches to produce Dottyback Deamo Daydream, another 5.10c free climb. The descents from these fin-like towers involved simul-rappelling. Two 60-meter 9-mm ropes pulled fine each time. On Captain Collywobble, the tallest of the group, we used one 60-meter and one 70- meter rope.

Steve “Crusher” Bartlett