American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Mexican Mountain Area, Lone Rock, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Mexican Mountain Area, Lone Rock, South Face. We had long had our eyes on the prominent right-facing dihedral system working its way up the south face of Lone Rock. Despite Eric’s guidebook and all the hoopla about it, the tower known as Lone Rock still had no additional routes. We saw more bikers and four wheelers than usual but no other climbers. On March 13, John Sweeley and I made the first ascent of the South Face (III 5.9+ A1)

The rock is generally superb. For the off width master, the free rating would be harder, the Cl would be minimal and the nailing may be necessary to protect only a brief rotten section. By no means, however, should it be considered only a wide climb. Fun finger and hand cracks predominate. Three long pitches take one to the south summit intersection with Owls Eyes. Here one may continue to the higher north summit via the last 5.7 pitch of the other route or descend by rappel to the west.

James Garrett

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