American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

The Desert, Various Activity. Jeff Achey and Irene Bloche made the first free ascent of the giant hoodoo Mexican Hat. The climb, which they called The Frito Route (5.12), begins ten feet left of the Bandito Route. The first two or three bolts are stick-clipped, giving the overhanging ascent an upper belay.

In the Moab Area, The Full Monty (5.11 A0, three pitches) was climbed on Super Chimney Tower by Paul Ross, Jimmy Dunn, and Billy Rothstein in November. The tower is located up the Moab Rim Trail off Kane Creek Boulevard. The first two pitches were climbed solo by Todd Madaux and named Arnold Ziffle. In the popular Sunshine Wall in the north Salt Wash, just north of Arches National Park, several new lines were established. Among them was Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love) (5.9 A3, three pitches) on Tower 143, climbed by James Garrett, Pete Keane and Brad England. The tower is the most prominent tower at the right end of Sunshine Wall.

In the Hurrah Pass area south of Moab, the spectacular Amazon Tower saw its first ascent by Andy Roberts, Dave Mealey and Matt Vanosdell. The route (5.11 A2, four pitches) climbs the west face of the spire. In the same area, Soltice Tower (5.10 C2) was climbed by Ted Rummings and Roberts in June.

Eric Bjornstad

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