American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Third Recess Peak, Northeast Buttress, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Third Recess Peak, Northeast Buttress, Previously Unreported. Third Recess Peak is the unnamed peak on the right as you hike up into Third Recess. Lara Wilkinson and I climbed the Northeast Buttress (IV 5.10, 1,600') in June, 1994, in 11 pitches. The route offers a variety of climbing challenges in a remote location. Begin climbing on slabs to the right of a prominent right-facing dihedral (this dihedral may offer a more direct way up the lower section). A small chimney is followed by thin seams (5.10) leading to a large ledge. From the left side of the ledge, climb blocks to a left-facing corner. At the top of the corner, traverse left into the top of the prominent dihedral. Follow the dihedral to a beautiful ledge on the buttress. Traverse to the right of the first tower and ascend a corner to the prow of an arête. Follow the prow of the narrow arête past towers to the base of a large tower. Climb a beautiful hand crack/corner around the left side of the tower. From here the climbing is mostly fourth class, with a few fifth-class sections.

Michael Strassman

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