American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Muir, South Face, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Mt. Muir, South Face, Previously Unreported. Charlie Byrne and I climbed the South Face (IV 5.9, 1,600') of Mt. Muir in June, 1997, in a single day from Whitney Portal. Begin climbing at the toe of the lowest point of the south face. Ascend a clean dihedral to a ramp. At the top of the ramp, go up cracks in a right-facing corner to a step-off on a pinnacle, then up a crack on the left wall. Climb up ramps and cracks through a small overhang. Climb up and right on third-class ledges to a clean, right-facing corner. Above this, more third class leads to the base of a chute (snow-filled in early season). Cross this to the base of a beautiful right-facing corner with a wide crack and climb the wall to its left. Go straight right to reach the summit ridge.

Michael Strassman

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.