North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Muir, South Face, Previously Unreported

Publication Year: 2000.

Mt. Muir, South Face, Previously Unreported. Charlie Byrne and I climbed the South Face (IV 5.9, 1,600') of Mt. Muir in June, 1997, in a single day from Whitney Portal. Begin climbing at the toe of the lowest point of the south face. Ascend a clean dihedral to a ramp. At the top of the ramp, go up cracks in a right-facing corner to a step-off on a pinnacle, then up a crack on the left wall. Climb up ramps and cracks through a small overhang. Climb up and right on third-class ledges to a clean, right-facing corner. Above this, more third class leads to the base of a chute (snow-filled in early season). Cross this to the base of a beautiful right-facing corner with a wide crack and climb the wall to its left. Go straight right to reach the summit ridge.

Michael Strassman

Share this article