American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Morrison, South Ridge of South Peak, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 2000

Mt. Morrison, South Ridge of South Peak, Previously Unreported. Kirk Schultz and I climbed the South Ridge (IV 5.9+, eight roped pitches in 2,000' of climbing) of South Peak of Mt. Morrison in November, 1995. Not much needs to be said about the rock quality on this route; however, it is a thrilling and exposed climb. Climb a dike at the base of the east face to gain a large ledge 100 feet off the ground. From the ledge, scramble about 800 feet up gully on the left side of the east face to gain the south ridge. Climb a wall of sandstone, then a wall of limestone behind it (both 5.8) to a ridge of shit rock. This puts one in a large notch between the south ridge and the main ridge. Ascend a low-angle dihedral to the top of the east face. Climb into a notch and ascend a very loose rock to an arête that leads to a steep thin crack (crux). Scramble down to a gully that forms the left side of the south ridge, then 300 feet up to the top of the south peak, which is apparently the true summit of Mt. Morrison.

Michael Strassman

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