American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Ruby Wall, Don't Take Your Love To Town, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Ruby Wall, Don’t Take Your Love To Town, Previously Unreported. Don’t Take Your Love To Town (IV 5.10, 1,200') is the most direct route to the top of the Ruby Wall. It climbs between the Rowell Arête and Wide Sargasso Sea. Charles Byrne and I made the first ascent in August, 1997. Begin on a ramp that leads to a gully between those two routes. Before entering the gully, climb straight up on discontinuous flakes to a broad ledge. Climb a wide crack from the center of the ledge (5.10). Leave the crack and follow flakes right past a small overhang to a nice small ledge. Ignore the flaring overhang above you and traverse right to another ledge with a detached pillar on it. Climb the pillar and step off it (5.10) and ascend cracks and dihedrals around the corner. The summit dihedral is above you. Remain on the arête left of the dihedral until able to traverse left to a ledge. A gold wall (easily visible from the ground) split by cracks is above. Climb the hand-sized crack for a full pitch (5.10) to easier ground below the summit.

Michael Strassman

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