American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Peak 12,600'+, Direct Northeast Face, Consolation Prize, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 2000

Peak 12,600'+, Direct Northeast Face, Consolation Prize, Previously Unreported. In August, 1998, Bob Cable and I climbed the large pyramid-shaped unnamed peak half a mile north of the twin summits of Seven Gables. The peak, as seen from the Seven Gables Lakes Basin (i.e., from the east), is separated from the Seven Gables summits by a large col that intersects the long north ridge and east face. Our route began directly below the summit at the base of a slightly bulging column that runs straight up the center of the northeast face. Due to a steep snowfield, we traversed in from the left across a face to reach the column about 100 feet above its base. We climbed cracks on the left side of the column, which eventually took us onto the center, then the right side of the column. From here, an arête arched up and left for four more easier pitches to the summit. We descended the snow slopes, dropping east from the notch that separates this peak from Seven Gables. This was a quality route with good rock and steep climbing. Using a 60-meter rope, we completed Consolation Prize (IV 5.9) in 11 pitches.

Eric Tipton, Rim of the World Climbing Club

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