American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kyrgyzstan, Karavshin Region, Peak Gorniak, Third Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Peak Gomiak, Third Ascent. Peak Gomiak (5013m) is difficult to get to without a helicopter. It takes two days and entails crossing two passes from the Karavshin Base Camp in the Asan- Usen region. Only two routes have been established on it: one, the Lenivkovoy route (5B), ascends the northwest rib, and the second, the 1992 Sidorov route (6B), ascends the center of the north-northeast face. The latter took two attempts; it was a seriously organized expedition that used a helicopter and a lot of climbers.

The Altsport team from St. Petersburg of V. Shamalo, leader, and K. Korabelnikov made the third ascent of the mountain from July 31 to August 7 via a variation to the 1992 Sidorov route, which averages 78° and is 1100 meters high. They climbed the route without any help, without a helicopter or a base camp. They reached the face of Gomiak from Karavshin Base Camp and returned 19 days later. The route was awarded second place in technical difficulty climbing class for the 1998 Russian mountaineering championships.

Vladimir Shataev, Russian Mountaineering Federation

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