American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kyrgyzstan, Laylak Region, Ak-Su North Peak, North Face, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Ak-Su North Peak, North Face, Various Ascents. The Laylak Ak-Su region is still one of the most attractive climbing regions in the C.I.S., with the most technically difficult peak being the north face of Ak-Su North Peak (5217m). From August 12-25, Pavel Chabaline (leader), A. Mochalov and I. Tukhvatullin of the Kirov (Russia) Sport Club Rodina climbed the 1986 V. Popov route (6B). The route was the first to ascend the central part of the north face more or less directly; the 1998 repeat, which was undertaken in bad conditions, was only its third ascent. The ascent was awarded first place in the technical difficulty climbing class of the 1998 Russian mountaineering championship season.

From August 12-18, a team from Magnitogorsk, Russia, led by B. Mineev and comprising A. Vashliaev and G. Kirievskiy, climbed the Cold Comer route (Antonov, 1997, 6A). The ascent was awarded third place in the technical difficulty climbing class.

Vladimir Shataev, Russian Mountaineering Federation

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