American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kazakhstan, Dzhungaria Ala-Tau, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Dzhungaria Ala-Tau, Various Ascents. It was reported that British guide Nick Parks traveled to the rarely visited Dzhungaria (Dzhungarskiy) Ala-Tau, a range that straddles the Kazakhstan- Chinese border, in August with a group of school children. The team spent 15 days at or above Base Camp, in which time period they attempted 11 peaks, summiting on nine. All were first ascents. From August 8 to 21, members of the group climbed the following: Violetta (3800m) via the northeast face to the southwest ridge (F+); Natallia (3900m) via the north face and west ridge (PD); Olly’s Point (ca. 3400m) via the south flank and west ridge (PD); Jumbula (4200m) via the north face (F+); Spudnick 4000m) via the east ridge (F) and west face (AD, 300m); the first summit northwest of Simonev Tien Shanski (4200m) via the southeast ridge (F+); Tara (3700m) via the west face. The team also attempted Simonev Tien Shanski via the northwest ridge, but retreated due to lack of time, and Chumsk (4400m) via the north buttress. Team members included Violetta Afuksenidi, Frances Cook, Adam, C.J. and Mark Edwards, Griff Freeman, Dominic Gill, Ollie Hickling, Miriam Manook, Nick Parks, Stas Petrovich, Dr. Barney Rosedale, James Torrance and John Turner. The team reports enormous scope for moderate climbs to the summits of virgin 4000-meter peaks. (High Mountain Sports 197)

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