American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Tadjikistan, Fanskie Mountains, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Fanskie Mountains, Various Ascents. A lot of famous mountains and good technical routes were climbed in August in the Fanskie Mountains of Tadjikistan during the Europe-Asia Association of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Championships. All of the following routes are about 1000 meters high on very steep rock. First place was awarded to the team of FA&C from Moscow (S. Schepachkov, leader, O. Milenin and I. Turchanski), which climbed the northwest face of Chapdara Peak (5050m) via the 1972 Solonnikov route (6B) from August 1-8. Second place went to the Alaudin, Russia, team led by S. Antonov, who, with D. Vlaznev, U. Vlaznev and O. Kurova, climbed the left side of the west face of Bodkhona peak (5138m) via a variation to the 1987 Moshnikov route (6A) from August 14-19. S. Kosoturov (leader), D. Veretenin, A. Kustov and O. Pedenkoa of the Angarsk (Russia) Sport Team took third place when they climbed Peak Zamok (5070m) via the 1983 Tishchenko route (6A), which follows the central buttress on the north face. The team climbed the route from August 16-21. Fourth place went to the Krasnoyarsk City Region Team led by A. Savinich and comprising V. Alexandrov, A. Zakrepa, S. Fedorov and S. Cherezov, who climbed the northwest face of Chapdara Peak (5050m) via the 1972 Solonnikov route (6B) from August 7-12. Fifth place was awarded to the Krasnoyarsk City Travelers Center Team (D. Tsyganov, leader, I. Koriukin) who climbed the north face of Peak Adamtash (4700m) via the 1985 V. Grischenko route (5B) from August 1-4. The mountaineering club “Ushba” from Toliatty led by A. Abramov, together with V. Melnikov and P. Sokolov, took sixth place with their variation of the 1971 Zhitenev route (5B) on the left side of the west face of Peak Bodkhona (5138m), which they climbed from August 11-14.

Vladimir Shataev, Russian Mountaineering Federation

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