American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Caucasus, Mt. Dalar, North Face, and Traverse

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Mt. Dalar, North Face, and Traverse. From August 9-13, a team led by V. Ivanov, together with I. Afanasiev, I. Bondarenko, and S. Egorin, all from the North Osetia Rescue Service Team, climbed M. Warburton’s 1976 North Buttress route (6A) on the north face of Mt. Dalar (3979m), then continued to make a traverse along Dvoyniashka Peak (3843m) and the Zamok group (3930m). This route is the most difficult in the Uzuncol region: the north buttress of Dalar is a ca. 500-meter near-vertical rock pillar. To climb the route and then link it with the traverse of Dvoyniashka Peak and the Zamok group—rocky peaks and buttresses ca. one kilometer in length—was rather unusual.

Vladimir Shataev, Russian Mountaineering Federation

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