American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Nanga Parbat, Ascent. Our summit day, July 21, saw a multi-national group from three different expeditions depart CIV at about 4 a.m. In one team were two Koreans, in the second were three Koreans and their high-altitude porter, Rosi Ali, and in the last group were Alan Hinkes and I. Rosi Ali and I shared the leads, alternating 50-meter pitches except where the route steepened or we moved into mixed ground, where I retained the lead. Disappointingly, no amount of cajoling, pleading or abuse was sufficient to motivate any of the other climbers to contribute. Very deep snow and a late afternoon blizzard contributed to Rosi’s and my exhaustion; however, at about 4 p.m., I reached the base of the summit buttress around 7800 meters and was able to make better time. I led for the next hour or so until about 50 meters below the summit, where Rosi Ali overtook me and led through to the summit. Rosi reached the summit about 5:45 p.m. and I at 5:50 p.m. It took until 6:20 p.m. for all the other climbers to reach the summit and at 6:30 p.m. I commenced the descent. During the descent, Hinkes and I led most of the way until we reached the vicinity of CIV, which we were unable to locate. We separated and whilst I was searching, Hinkes was joined by some of the Koreans and together they located the camp. They did not call to me and I was not aware that the camp had been found. Around 2 a.m., I gave up and settled in for a bivouac. With sufficient light at 5 a.m., I moved off and found the camp a couple of hundred meters away, with the larger Korean team and Hinkes ensconced within. The other two Koreans had also bivied out.

Andrew Lock

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.