American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Sani Pakush, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Sani Pakush, Attempt. It was reported that Andy Benson, Kenton Cool, Rich Cross and A1 Powell attempted the ca. 2600-meter west buttress of Sani Pakush (6885m), the pyramidal peak north of Chalt on the watershed between the Kukuay and Batura glaciers north of Broad Peak. Three consecutive towers make up the lower section of the ridge. The team climbed and fixed the first tower in early August in 800 meters of mixed and rock climbing up to British HVS. After a return to BC in 16 rappels, the four began a continuous push on August 11, nearly getting hit by ibex-instigated rock fall en route. They ascended the second tower with one pitch of El 5b and reached the bottom of the third tower on the third day. On the fourth day, they managed five mixed and rock pitches up to E3 5c before rockfall cut one of their ropes. Their high point of ca. 5600 meters was 400 meters short of where the buttress joins the south ridge, from where it is another 800 meters of 30° snow to the summit. (High Mountain Sports 196)

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