American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Tarke Kang, Ski Descent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Tarke Kang, Ski Descent. A small four-member group of Czech mountaineers (Robin Baum, leader, Vladimír Smrž, Vladimir Prieložný, Josef Peterek) traveled to Tarke Kang (a.k.a. Glacier Dome, 7193m) with the goal of climbing the north face and then skiing it. They left Jomosom on September 21. After crossing Mesokantu La (5400m), they reached BC, which was placed close to a small lake near the main Tilicho Lake, three days later. They acclimatized by ferrying loads, which the mules had dropped four kilometers from BC. They established CI (5600m) near the base of the face, eight kilometers from BC.

On October 1, Baum and Smrž went to the face and set up CII at 6300 meters on a steep snow slope. Avalanche danger forced them down. When the weather improved, the second group, Prieložný and Peterek, started up the face. They couldn’t find the tent, so they went on climbing.

On October 5, Baum and Smrž started up the left side of the north face. During their ascent, they watched as the second group descended on the right side of the face (the side of the first ascent). At 6300 meters, they set up the first bivouac on steep ground. The next day, they ascended ice slopes between seracs to 6700 meters. On the 8th, they advanced with skis only to the summit, which they reached at 12 o’clock. After one hour on top, they skied down toward the second bivouac. They packed their things and were at the base of the face by 3:30 p.m.

On the way to BC, they met Prielozný, who wanted to climb the right side of the north face overnight. During his ascent, he signaled every two hours with his headlamp to indicate everything was all right. At 8 a.m. he stood on the summit. For the descent, he chose a safer route to ski down and after five hours he was at the base of face and CI On October 16, after 23 days on the mountain, the small expedition left BC.

JiRí Novak, Czech Republic

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