American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri I, Northeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Dhaulagiri I, Northeast Ridge. From April 12 to June 10, 14 members of the Slovenian Alpine Club (Tone Škarja, leader; Dr. Damijan Meško, Viktor Grošelj, Tadej Golob, Tomaž Jakofcic, Dušan Polenik, Rafael Vodišek, Davorin Karnicar, Miha Marence, Janko Meglic, Gregor Lacen, Andrej Markovic, Peter Mežnar, Blaž Stres) traveled to Dhaulagiri I (8167m). The chief goal of the expedition was to acquaint promising young Slovenian climbers with conditions at and above 8000 meters, and with the logistics of organizing a Himalayan expedition. The team was on the mountain from April 28 to May 27. On May 16, Italians climbers found Chantai Mauduit and a Sherpa at CII (6600m), who, with their tent buried in snow, had obviously died of suffocation. Seven of our climbers reached the summit: Gregor Lacen and Miha Marence, on May 23; Tomaž Jakofcic and Peter Mežnar, on May 24; and Janko Meglic, Tadej Golob and Dušan Polenik, on May 26. As none of the seven had previously been higher than 7000 meters, the chief aim of the expedition is believed to have been reached.

Tone Škarja, Planinska zveza Slovenije

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