American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Ladakh-Rupshu, Thugje, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Thugje, First Ascent. A Chukyo Alpine Club (CAC) mountaineering party from Nagoya, Japan, made the first ascent of Thugje (6148m) in Rupshu, Ladakh, on August 14 and 15. Thugje is located northwest of Tso Moriri Lake in Rupshu in Ladakh. The average age of the 11 Japanese climbing members was 58. Base Camp (4600m) was established on August 8 on the right bank of a small stream, Pologongka Phu, about five kilometers west of Pologongka Pass (4940m). All luggage and foods were transported by vehicles up to the Base Camp from New Delhi via Leh, Upsi, Chumatang, Mahe and Sumdo.

Reconnaissance of the route to CI (5400m) was carried out through the southern slope of the main ridge, and CI was established on a moraine from the main ridge near a small stream. BC to CI was about four hours without gear. From CI, the route to the main ridge was via a huge rock slope (ca. 40-60°). About 100 meters of rope were fixed on the final part of the route to the main ridge. From the end of the fixed rope to the summit of Thugje, the climbing route followed a snow and rock ridge. Fortunately, it was not so steep and not so long. On August 14, at 11:45 a.m., six Japanese (Akira Ito, Masayuki Muto, Katsumi Hishidda, Tsutomu Nomura, Norio Hamada and Masato Oki), three Indians (the LO, Sorab Gandhi, and Guide Arun Roy Chowdhury), and two High-Altitude Porters (Lakpa Sanghe and Passang Tenzing) reached the summit. On August 15, four Japanese (Genichi Ozaki, Soji Harada, Susumu Takeda and Norio Hamada for a second time), A.R. Chowdhury (also for a second time) and two High-Altitude Porters climbed Thugje from CI by the same route.

On August 18, all luggage, unconsumed food and garbage was carried down from CI to BC. On August 21, all members started the return journey. During the climbing period, ten trekking members had enjoyed trekking around Leh, Tso Moriri Lake (4300m) and BC.

Prof. Masato Oki, Chukyo Alpine Club, Japan

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