American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Uttar Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, Leo Pargial and Other Peaks, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1999

Leo Pargial and Other Peaks, Various Ascents. We (Arun Samant, leader; Aloke Surin, Anil Chavan and Ravi Wadaskar) went to the Chango Valley of the Kinnaur District in the Himachal Pradesh during July and August to attempt Leo Pargial (6791m), the third-highest peak of Himachal Pradesh, and other peaks encircling the Chango Glacier. We were established at Base Camp July 9. The unclimbed peak (6484m) seen prominently as one looks up from Base Camp lies close to Leo Pargial on the ridge above the right bank of the glacier. Ravi Wadaskar and Ramgopal Negi climbed the southwest face of the peak. A traverse led them to the steep, loose, rocky south ridge, which was followed to the summit. The summit, composed of an eight-meter boulder, was reached at 11 a.m. The descent to the summit camp required three hours. Anil and I then climbed Leo Pargial via the normal route, making a small variation to reach the West Col.

Ningmari (6173m) rises from the left bank of the glacier south of Base Camp. We attempted it, but the sun on the face made it a dangerous proposition in the afternoon and we had no alternative but to climb down immediately.

Aloke and Ravi were keen to attempt a few more peaks around Base Camp while some us returned to Chango. On July 28, Ravi and Aloke ferried loads toward a 6228-meter peak. Two days later, Chokdup, Ramgopal, Ravi and Aloke moved up to camp at 5700 meters. On August 1, they were up early for the summit attempt and soloed steep ice by headlamp, then worked their way up the icy northwest face. Finally they reached the summit ridge and proceeded to plod up to the snow summit. Wishing to leave nothing in doubt, they trudged across to the rocky summit at 11:15 a.m., which turned out to be slightly higher.

Team members also attempted Ningmari (6173m) and another unnamed peak (5900m). Three members of the team visited Ninjeri Col (6120m). After shifting to a new area opposite Rekong Peo, Khanej Peak on the Raldang Ridge was climbed by three members, who later crossed the Khanej Pass and descended to Sangla in the Baspa Valley.

Arun Samant, The Climbers, Mumbai, India

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